Archive for January, 2007

EU To Pressure China For Dog Fur Ban

Wednesday, January 31st, 2007

The pressure exerted by the Kennel Club, working with MEPs Neil Parish and Caroline Lucas and welfare organisations the RSPCA and Dogs Trust, to ban the trade of dog and cat fur, has at last come to fruition with an EU proposal for a ban.

DNA tests have shown that many items including coats, and rugs on sale in European countries are in fact made from real cat and dog fur, but are often marketed as ‘non-domestic animals’ or ‘fake’. An estimated two million cats and dogs are farmed and killed each year in China.

The Kennel Club campaign urged all dog lovers and consumers of conscience to write to the European Commissioner, Markos Kyprianou, expressing their concerns. The KC also took up the issue directly with the Commission, and used their international network and influence, for dogs. The EU has now reacted to public and parliamentary demands.

Green Party Euro MP Dr Caroline Lucas said: “Consumers across the EU have been unwittingly buying cat and dog fur for years. This new ban – brought about, in part, thanks to both Kennel Club and Green Party pressure – means they won’t be doing so in future, and labelling requirements mean anyone who does continue to buy fur will know exactly where it has come from. This should put an end to this cruel and unpopular trade across Europe.”

Markos Kyprianou confirmed that he is acting for ‘ethical’ reasons and in response to a public outcry over the barbaric treatment of animals to provide fur for everything from rugs and coats to figurines. Mr Kyprianou said “The message we have received from EU consumers has been loud and clear”. The Commissioner is now confident that EU Governments and MEPs will swiftly turn his proposal into legislation.

However, even with an EU ban in place, the trade will still exist in countries around the world, so the Kennel Club will continue to apply pressure on the Chinese authorities to end their trade in dog and cat fur, as this is a major root of the problem. By writing to the Chinese Embassy and urging others to do the same, and by asking its commercial partners to suspend trading with China, the KC hopes to see an end to this practice.

Caroline Kisko, Kennel Club Secretary said; “The Kennel Club believes that the most effective way to influence China to put an end to these appalling practices, is through trade. The recent arrival of the super tanker into Felixstowe in Suffolk, bringing with it tonnes of canned dog and cat food among many other products, is a forceful reminder of the importance of the UK market. As consumers, we can have a great influence and we should all be thinking very carefully before buying any product made in China while these acts of barbaric cruelty go unchecked by the Chinese government. Letting the Chinese Embassy know that you will stop buying Chinese goods until this trade stops is an effective way of getting your views across.” For the Chinese Embassy’s address details please see below.

The Kennel Club is the governing body for dogs, and promotes in every way the general improvement of dogs.

Chinese Embassy :

Mr. Zha Peixin
Ambassador of the People’s Republic of China to the United Kingdom

Chinese Embassy
49-51 Portland Place
London
W1B 1JL

www.dognews.co.uk/category/animal-welfare-news/

Pet Shop Owner Creates “Kwispelbier” … a Beer for Dogs?!

Monday, January 29th, 2007

News Flash – a non-alcoholic beer called Kwispelbier has been created and is advertised as “a beer for your best friend.” Kwispel is Dutch for wagging a tail. The beer is fit for human consumption, but it’s about four times more expensive than a Heineken. The dog’s gonna drink better beer than I do? Not likely…

Yes, it’s true – an insane dog (and beer) lover out there created a beer for dogs made from beef extract and malt. Well, that doesn’t really make it a beer, simply because it’s not fermented, but that didn’t stop Terrie Berenden, a pet shop owner in the town of Zelhem, who created a non-alcoholic beer for her Weimaraner dog.

Berenden contracted a local brewery to brew and bottle: Kwispelbier, which is Dutch for “wagging a tail.” It was introduced to the market last week and advertised as “a beer for your best friend.”

AP quoted her as stating: “Once a year we go to Austria to hunt with our dogs, and at the end of the day we sit on the verandah and drink a beer. So we thought, my dog also has earned it.” Apparently, Kwispelbier is also fit for human consumption and will run you around euro1.65 ($2.14) a bottle.

What next?

Secondhand Smoke Affects Pets, Too

Saturday, January 27th, 2007

Cigarette smoke is harmful to your entire family-and that includes your pet

If you’re a smoker and a pet owner, it is not a good idea to smoke in the same room as your cat or dog. Second hand smoke exposure in pets has been associated with lung and nasal cancers as well as an increase in respiratory problems and asthma.

In several studies conducted at Colorado State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, dogs that lived with smokers were more likely to have cancer than dogs that lived with non-smokers. Cats, too, can be affected by smoking, and can develop respiratory problems and worsen existing ones such as asthma. At Tufts University of Veterinary Medicine they reported that cats living with smokers also have a significantly increased likelihood of contracting cancer, specifically lymphoma.

Veterinarians also urge smokers to keep tobacco products away from their animals to avoid accidental ingestion.

If you need one more reason to quit then do it for the love of your pets!

Secondhand smoke is a mixture of the smoke given off by the burning cigarette, pipe or cigar and the smoke exhaled from the lungs of a smoker. It contains more than 4,000 substances, and has been classified by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as a known cancer-causing agent.

Exposure to secondhand smoke causes serious problems, especially to young children whose lungs are still developing. Secondhand smoke is responsible for between 150,000 and 300,000 lower respiratory tract infections such as pneumonia and bronchitis in the United States each year. It can lead to ear infections and can increase the number of episodes and severity of asthma attacks in asthmatic children. Adults exposed to secondhand smoke are more likely to have heart disease and lung cancer.

What to do to reduce exposure to secondhand smoke:

Make your home and vehicle smoke-free zones

Go outside to smoke – cracking a window or leaving the room does not remove the risk to children or pets

Don’t permit smoking around pets and children, especially infants and toddlers

Check with your child’s daycare, school, and after-school programs to see that they are smoke-free

Don’t be afraid to let family, friends, and co-workers know you don’t want them to smoke around you and your children and pets

www.co.rockland.ny.us/pior/second/second.shtml

Leash Training

Wednesday, January 24th, 2007

What is the purpose of a leash?
By Jon Dunkerley

“A chain, rope, or strap attached to the collar or harness of an animal, especially a dog, and used to lead it or hold it in check.” – Webster’s Dictionary

Hmmmm…

- A chain, or rope used to hold an animal in check?

- A chain, or rope used to lead an animal?

First of all, the purpose of a leash is not to hold an animal in check. The purpose of a leash is to connect the dog to the owner. Furthermore, last time I checked horses did not wear leashes, and it is these huge misconceptions of the leash and its proper roll in the lives of the owner/dog team that prompted me to take the time to write this article.

The leash is a great invention due to its simplicity and its purpose. Without its invention, we would not be, along with our faithful four-legged companions able to take advantage of strolls on nice summer days, or brisk morning walks, yet the inability and ignorance of the common dog owner when it comes to using the leash makes me wonder why they do not come with instructions on how to use them.

As I said above, the leash was invented to attach you, the owner to your dog. The purpose of the leash is not for the owner to be the anchor behind the pulling bull, which 9 times out of ten is the actual scenario. Thousands upon thousands of dog owners would enjoy walking their dogs ten fold if they only knew and applied proper leash techniques when doing so.

The purpose of the leash while walking with your dog is to allow you the owner to have constant control over your dog, it is not to sentence your dog to a boring dull walk! Allowing your dog to venture to the boulevard for a sniff, or venturing off course to be lavished with affection by passersby, is simply your dog being a dog
I understand that in most cases it is simply a case of the public just not knowing any better; however, taking the time to find out the correct way to use the most common dog product ever made would help to know end, the relationship, and overall ambiance between dog and master.

Common Mistake

Letting your dog pull you around, is just teaching him/her that having a taught leash is cool and you do not mind being jerked from one place to another. The biggest fault with the taught leash scenario, is that the owner tends to pull back when the dog pulls, thus encouraging the dog to pull thus initiating a tug of war that the dog usually wins.

Solution

The dog must understand that you are in charge of the situation and they are not. Walking with you should be a privilege with acting out of control an undesirable and unacceptable act. By maintaining a slack leash while walking with your dog, you are giving yourself that extra foot of leash, as well as an extra second to react to your dog’s incessant forward lunges.

Technique

Pulling dog

First of all you the owner need to know the correct way to handle your dog’s leash. Always make sure that your leash arm is not straight but bent. By doing this, you are not putting stress on your arm, and you are giving yourself an arm length of leash to use when reacting to unwanted action from your dog:

- When your dog lunges forward from a loose leash to a tight leash, he/she will experience a level of discomfort. This in itself, may be enough to discourage the behavior.
- If your dog continues to pull, this is where the bent arm theory comes in:
By suddenly straightening your arm and backing up, you are delivering a loose leash, to taught correction to your dog’s forward lunging, thus putting a surprising and abrupt halt to your dog’s forward progress.
- The third option is to straighten your arm while turning and walking in the opposite direction. By doing this you are providing a loose leash, to a hard correction, that is ongoing and only ceases when the dog complies with you.

The idea behind this approach is to make an effort to convey to the dog that this type of behavior is unacceptable and you the owner will not tolerate it. You the owner want your dog to make the association between lunging forward, and the resulting discomfort that accompanies that act. If proper leash technique is used correctly and consistently, one can put a stop to incessant pulling of any kind whether it be pulling forward, or pulling sideways. Always make a point to praise and reward the dog upon compliance! By doing this you are only strengthening the dog’s understanding that good behavior leads to good results. By relaying the message to your dog that unwanted activity will lead to discomfort, while compliance will lead to a good outcome, walking your dog will soon become a pleasure not a chore.

www.dogflu.ca/11292005/10/leash_training

Learn to Control Your Emotions Using SCRAPS

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

When you are faced with a possible pet neglect or abuse situation, you might become upset. However, you need to be strong and calm in this situation, so that you will remember what you know. You need to make excellent decisions. Control your emotions like a humane professional would.

Six deep breaths and six powerful words will help you regain self-control. Each phrase builds upon the previous one. First, close your eyes and tilt your head down. Stand with your feet a little bit apart if you can.

S (strong)
Breathe in deeply, and repeat to yourself while you exhale:
“I am Strong. I am Strong. I am Strong.”
This is the first step in the process. Remind yourself that you are strong. Recall a potent memory if that helps.

C (calm)
Breathe in deeply, and repeat to yourself while you exhale:
“I am Calm. I am Calm. I am Calm.”
With your strength called forth, calm yourself. Assume command of your emotional balance.

R (rational)
Breathe in deeply, and repeat to yourself while you exhale:
“I am Rational. I am Rational. I am Rational.”
With calmness, you can call forth your rational mind. Your learning and experiences can surface to support you in this situation.

A (aware)
Breathe in deeply, and repeat to yourself while you exhale:
“I am Aware. I am Aware. I am Aware.”
Now it’s time to focus your eyes, ears, and nose on the here and now. Be very observant so you may recall details later.

P (prepared)
Breathe in deeply, and repeat to yourself while you exhale:
“I am Prepared. I am Prepared. I am Prepared.”
You’ve progressed through the strong, calm, rational, and awareness breaths. Now you are prepared to act with all of your mental and emotional powers harnessed. You are ready. Open your eyes and proceed.

S (Sunbear)
Breathe in deeply, and repeat to yourself while you exhale:
“Remember Sunbear. Remember Sunbear. Remember Sunbear.”
Remember that you are making the world a better place for pets with the help of Sunbear’s web site and support tools. This thought will give you extra confidence and resolve.

Open your eyes and look up. You are emotionally prepared to make excellent decisions now.

To help you remember the word SCRAPS, here are two ideas.

1-Think of table scraps, those bits of leftover human food left on dinner plates. Picture the dog or cat in trouble eating yummy table scraps offered by a loving hand.

2-Repeat the 6 words all quickly: strong – calm – rational – aware – prepared – Sunbear. See the words in your mind’s eye as you say them. See the words written in your handwriting. Now write the 6 words down on a “SCRAP” of paper and put it in your wallet. When you next see the SCRAP in your wallet, say the 6 words again. Keep the paper SCRAP in your wallet.

Words are the most powerful force on earth. What you say to yourself changes your feelings and behavior. SCRAPS breathing is your secret weapon for emotional balance in challenging situations. Be the best you.

© 2006 The Sunbear Squad; All rights reserved.
www.sunbearsquad.org/scraps.shtml

Dog Names

Monday, January 22nd, 2007

For some interesting and unique dog names read on:

- Tango
- Ceilidh
- Rex
- Bobo
- Conan
- Lexington
- Frodo
- Raspberry
- Ozzie
- Alley
- Chesney
- Maggie
- Cory
- Margo
- Spot
- Cuty
- Lark
- Luther
- Tye
- Travis
- Oak
- Harry
- Lennox
- Sammy
- Harlem
- Tumble
- Latham
- Leo
- Twig
- Walker
- Tish
- Booker
- Packer
- Eli
- Mitten
- Ross
- Pargo
- thyme
- Nut
- Corgey
- Ellis
- Gunther
- Treble
- Amy
- Bobbit
- Diamond
- Zoose
- Fletcher
- Simon
- Wendy
- Harvey

To add your doggie name send an email to feedback@dogflu.ca and they will add it for you. All names are added on a first name basis!

www.dogflu.ca/names

Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution

Friday, January 19th, 2007

As an anthropologist, I found this book very compelling – and as a dog lover it just made sense!

About this Book

From the Publisher

Biologists, breeders and trainers, and champion sled dog racers, Raymond and Lorna Coppinger have more than four decades of experience with literally thousands of dogs. Offering a scientifically informed perspective on canines and their relations with humans, the Coppingers take a close look at eight different types of dogs–household, village, livestock guarding, herding, sled-pulling, pointing, retrieving, and hound.

They argue that dogs did not evolve directly from wolves, nor were they trained by early humans; instead they domesticated themselves to exploit a new ecological niche: Mesolithic village dumps. Tracing the evolution of today’’s breeds from these village dogs, the Coppingers show how characteristic shapes and behaviors–from pointing and baying to the sleek shapes of running dogs–arise from both genetic heritage and the environments in which pups are raised.For both dogs and humans to get the most out of each other, we need to understand and adapt to the biological needs and dispositions of our canine companions, just as they have to ours.

From the Jacket

Biologists, breeders and trainers, and champion sled dog racers, Raymond and Lorna Coppinger have more than four decades of experience with literally thousands of dogs. Offering a scientifically informed perspective on canines and their relations with humans, the Coppingers take a close look at eight different types of dogs–household, village, livestock guarding, herding, sled-pulling, pointing, retrieving, and hound.

About the Author

Raymond Coppinger is professor of biology at Hampshire College & the author of “Fishing Dogs”. A former sled dog racing champion, he now lectures widely about dogs. He & Lorna Coppinger co-founded Hampshire’s Livestock Dog Project. He lives in Montague, Massachusetts.

Lorna Coppinger has written numerous technical & popular articles about dogs, & is the award-winning author of “The World of Sled Dogs”. She & Raymond Coppinger co-founded Hampshire’s Livestock Dog Project. She lives in Montague, Massachusetts.

From the Critics

Dr. Richard W. Wrangham professor of anthropology, Harvard University Forget being the alphawolf. “Dogs” teaches old dog lovers new tricks. For thousands of years after dogs stopped being wolves, and before they became pets, they were something else — a self-domesticated species with a mind of their own. The Coppingers” convincing new theory of dog evolution will be as interesting for archaeologists as for breeders and pet owners.

ISBN: 0226115631
Indigo Books – www.chapters.indigo.ca

Bread Machine Dog Biscuits

Thursday, January 18th, 2007

• 3/4 cup Beef stock — *see Note
• 1 egg
• 3 tablespoons oil
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup whole wheat flour
• 1/3 cup Bulgur — *see Note
• 1/3 cup Bran
• 1/4 cup nonfat dry milk
• 1/4 teaspoon Garlic powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons yeast

Place ingredients in bread pan according to manufacturers directions and press “Dough” cycle.

When machine beeps, remove dough to lightly floured countertop and with a rolling pin, roll dough out to 1/4″ thickness.

Using a dog bone cookie cutter (or any small seasonal cookie cutters), cut out dog biscuits and place on a lightly greased cookie sheet or one sprinkled with cornmeal. Re-roll scraps and repeat till all dough is used up. Place in a warm location and let rise 30 minutes.

Bake at 325 for 30 minutes until brown and no longer soft. Place on a rack to cool. Store in an airtight container.

* Chicken, Vegetable Or use hot water and 2 or 3 -bouillon cubes.

**If you don’t have bulgur try substituting something like a 7-grain cereal.

www.treatworld.com/index.php?detailed=9

Eliminate on Command

Wednesday, January 17th, 2007

By David the Dogman’s

If you plan to travel with your puppy, have rushed, hectic mornings or simply don’t relish standing in the rain while Rover takes his sweet time going potty, you should teach him to Eliminate on Command. Not only will it speed up the process of having him empty out, but it provides you with the convenience of being able to control when and where he will eliminate.

That you can teach your dog to eliminate when and where you tell him might, at first, sound miraculous. But, a command, even one that tells him to do his business, is nothing more than a stimulus to get him to perform a certain behaviour. Although elimination is a natural, biological function, dogs also eliminate to a wide range of visual, auditory and olfactory stimuli. Very young puppies are stimulated to urinate and defecate by their dam licking their ano- genital area. Older puppies respond to both pressure on the bowel or bladder as well as to the sight of their littermates eliminating. Adult dogs use feces and urine to mark territory. It is not at all unusual for resident dogs to mark droppings left by strange dogs that have wandered through their territory. Many dogs, especially males, will mark their territorial boundaries at the sight or sound of a strange dog.

The process of teaching your dog the command to eliminate is straightforward and simple – have him hear the command as he performs the behaviour. Then reward the behaviour. When you determine that he needs to eliminate, take him on his leash to the spot where you want him to use as his toilet area. Command him to go and continue to repeat the command until he does. As soon as he eliminates, praise him profusely and reward him with something that he wants.

Step one. Determine that he needs to go.

Predicting when your dog needs to eliminate is fairly easy. He will need to go shortly after he eats or drinks. The younger he is, the shorter will be the time between ingestion and elimination. He will need to urinate almost immediately after waking from a nap. If crated, he will need to eliminate after any length of time in the crate. In fact, putting your dog in his crate for an hour or so will almost insure that he will eliminate quickly. A play session when Mum, Dad or the kids arrive home is sure to cause him to need to go. And with young puppies, you are safe in considering that he will need to be taken outside about once an hour during the day for each month of his age.

It is imperative that a responsible adult watch the puppy while he is loose in the house. They will each give you a signal that they need to go. This signal will vary from puppy to puppy, but they will, all, if you’ll watch them, tell you of their needs. The signal may be that he starts to sniff the area. Many start turning in a tight circle. It’s a sign that you need to scoop him up and take him outside.

Step Two. Have a designated toilet area.

From a cleanup point of view, it is best to choose one specific area as your puppy’s toilet. Dogs are creatures of habit. If you take him, each time, to the same spot, it will, in a short time become a signal to him that it is potty time. It will also, later, help to prevent him from choosing your steps or patio as his bathroom. This is a good idea from a strictly training point of view as well. The scent left by his previous visits act as a powerful olfactory stimulus. It is necessary to clean up after your puppy’s visit as many dogs refuse to walk in an area fouled by feces. An easy way to do this is to insert your hand into a plastic bag, scoop up the feces, turn the bag inside out and seal it.

Step Three. Keep him in the area.

Most puppies, unless they are restrained, will spend their time outside in play. They will chase butterflies, sniff where the mice have scurried through the grass, anything except doing what you have brought them there to do. When you give up and take them back inside, they will suddenly remember their need. It is advisable to take your puppy out on his leash. Let boredom remind him of why he is there.
Step four. Limit his time.

Allow your puppy not more than five minutes to do his business. The entire point of this training is to teach him to go quickly when you tell him to. Standing around for long periods of time teaches him that you have nothing better to do than wait for him. If, after five minutes, he has not eliminated, simply put him in his crate. Leave him there for fifteen minutes. Then try him again.

Step five. Reward success.

Reward is the key to all successful dog training. When your puppy goes within the allotted five minute time span, immediately praise him. Reward him with something that he wants. This last is the tricky part. The reward must be something that he wants, not just something you think he wants. For many puppies, being taken off the leash is sufficient reward. House dogs, that are inside all day, might consider a long walk adequate reward. For some it might be a tasty food treat. For others,a chance to chase a ball.

The opposite of reward is punishment. Inadvertently punishing your dog after he has eliminated can quickly condition him to hold it as long as possible. Most of us adhere to a tight work and social schedule that sometimes makes an extra fifteen or twenty minutes to spend with our dog hard to come by. If you are going to succeed in teaching your puppy to eliminate on command, you absolutely must make this time available.

When you rush him back inside as soon as he has eliminated, what you are teaching him is that he will get to stay outside longer if he holds it longer. To teach your puppy to eliminate on command you must avoid inadvertent punishment. You can do this by observing a simple rule:

Always give your puppy ten minutes of reward time after he has eliminated.

FROM: David the Dogman’s A-Z Guide to Dogs
ISBN 84-89954-08-09 available from Bookshops

www.canadasguidetodogs.com/training/training10.htm

Calgary Creates a Model for Dealing with Dangerous Dogs

Tuesday, January 16th, 2007

Calgary has taken steps in enforcing tougher animal control bylaws, and guess what?

It’s working… And the City of Calgary has proof.

Ontario’s Mistake

Rather than take an opportunity to make a statement to aggressive dog owners, the province of Ontario has decided to ban an entire breed of dog.

The irony is that this action, in itself, goes against everything Canada stands for. Our country has invested years in fighting against segregation of any specific group based on a generalized stereotype about that group. In fact, we label such behavior as prejudice, and call such actions a violation of our civil rights. After years and years of moving our country forward and taking a stand against such actions – the province wide ban on pit bulls in Ontario has just set the clock back…

The Facts

Statistics are a truly interesting thing, and so easy to manipulate. They are used to support claims such as pit bull attacks have dropped by 25% since the breed ban – a statement made supporting the Winnipeg pit bull ban. The truth is, pit bulls accounted for fewer than 10% of recorded bites in Winnipeg – 28 of 310 in 1989.

Over 45 major expert organizations (80% of the organizations that presented a case regarding the bill in Ontario) spoke out against the ban. Expert testimony at showed that Husky, Shepherd, and Rottweiler type dogs are responsible for 65% of all Canadian dog bite fatalities over 20 year periods. The “pit bull” breeds identified in Bill 132 account for less than 5%.

How much sense does it make to ban one type of dog, when statistics that encompass ALL dog bites show 95% of serious bites and fatalities result from other breeds and types of dogs.

In fact, of the dogs listed on the “banned breed” list – one breed, the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, has NO known attacks in Canada. The Bull Terrier, which is fairly close in size to a minature poodle, is actually listed as one of the 10 best breeds for children by University researchers. England, France and Germany have not included this breed in the “pit bull” group – but Ontario has. This fact alone presents the question – are breed bans really based on based on proof of inherent danger?

In Winnipeg bites went up after the ban. Were the bites less severe? In 2003 a boy was killed by German Shepherds and last summer there were many vicious maulings by other breeds. Expert testimony points out that it is a myth that “pit bull” type dogs are unique in how they attack. Other breeds also have a bite and hold pattern. A bite and hold attack is not qualitatively more severe than a series of slashing bites typical for a breed like the German Shepherd.

“Please, let’s not look at banning specific breeds of dogs. Let’s look at banning the irresponsible, dangerous owners who either train their dogs to attack or don’t train them in good behaviour. Put them in jail. Fine them as you would a drunk driver. Make our society aware that if their dog attacks, there will be serious consequences, not months and years of lawyers battling in the legal system. That’s what happened to us and that’s just not right.”

- Donna Trempe, whose daughter Courtney was killed by a Bull Mastiff in 1998

There is a better option, the Calgary model. It solves every problem identified in Ontario including the concerns about police safety when dealing with criminals who own large, powerful dogs. To achieve the same bite reduction in Winnipeg as was seen in Calgary 58% of ALL DOGS would need to be on the ban list. Calgary’s solution creates a model which allows animal control officers to intervene long before a first bite.

The Calgary Model

Calgary’s bylaw officers have taken a stand against breed banning, and responded to dog bite concerns with a tougher licensing program and stronger enforcement. The City of Calgary also spends considerable funds on dog safety public awareness and education campaigns. Research shows that just 1 hour of dog safety training in grades 2 and 3 can reduce these attacks by 80%.

“We don’t punish breeds, we punish behavior,” said chief bylaw officer Bill Bruce. “The bottom line is, we believe all dogs are capable of biting.”

In Calgary, 90 per cent of dogs are licensed, allowing bylaw officers to keep track of pets and owners. The city also has a strict fine structure that includes a $250 penalty for chase incidents and $350 fines for bites. The bylaw also allows the officers to declare specific dogs as “dangerous” and this label brings with it higher license fees, muzzling rules and age restrictions on the dog’s handlers. The bylaw states that a dog can only be destroyed by owner request or court order.

The county of Newell in Alberta received dozens of letters and e-mails from around the world from people who oppose breed restrictions, said deputy Reeve Jack Harbinson.

“We decided after listening to the people, they were right,” he said.

The success of their actions? Approximately 1000 reported dog bites in 1985 and 260 reported dog bites in 2003.

Calgary’s dangerous dog legislation was implemented in response to the bite problem. Dangerous dog, not dangerous breed. The results speak for themselves – a 70% drop in the number of OVERALL dog bites.

The measures Calgary has taken have shown results, and set a model and a precedent that should be implemented across Canada. THIS is the model Ontario should be looking at…

“The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated.”
- Mahatma Gandhi

(Sources: Dog Watch, Canadian Federation of Humane Societies, Dog Legislation of Canada Online, The City of Calgary Website, CBC Indepth, The Legislative Assembly of Ontario, and the London Animal Care Center)

www.bdnhumanesociety.com/calgary_solution.htm