Archive for May, 2009

Dog Coprophagia – eating poop – yuck!

Friday, May 29th, 2009

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

Dog Coprophagia is one dog problem that us dog owners hate. To us it’s a filthy habit that just doesn’t make any sense. I mean why would our much loved pets eat dog or cat poop when we are feeding them perfectly good meals?

Dog Coprophagia (eating feces) is most common in puppies up to a year old, but can occur at any stage throughout a dog’s life. For such a wide spread problem there hasn’t been much research conducted into how to stop our dogs from eating dog poop. The good news though for us dog lovers is that there are many proven techniques or training methods we can call on to correct this habit.

If your puppy or older dog has taken a fancy to eating feces, read on…

Why Do Dogs Eat Dog or Cat Poop?

There are lots of theories as to why our dogs eat their poop – they can be broken down into two general groups:

1. Canine Behavioral Problem

2. Underlying Medical Problem

If you believe a medical problem could be causing your dog to eat her poop then a trip to your Vet is a must. They will perform an examination and can pinpoint the problem for you immediately.

An important thing to remember for all dog owners who have a poop eating puppy, is to ensure that all dog vaccinations and worming treatments are up to date. The reason for this is that various diseases and internal parasites can be passed from dog to dog through coprophagia.

Common Causes Of Dog Coprophagia

- It simply tastes good to your dog (disgusting I know!).

- Could be a symptom of anxiety, stress or boredom.

- Puppies may have a vitamin or mineral deficiency and they eat feces to restore this balance.

- If a puppy is punished for eliminating (pooping) inside your house he may on future occasions eat his poop to “hide the evidence”. This could happen because your puppy has misinterpreted the punishment. In other words he believes that he was punished for pooping, rather than for pooping in the wrong area.

- Could be that your dog is cleaning up his living area. This of course should be the owner’s job.

- Sometimes dogs develop this feces eating habit because they are copying the behavior of other dogs. There is also a theory that some dogs eat their poop because they see their owners cleaning it up, and they just decide to do it for themselves (not sure about this one).

- Bitches with a young litter of pups will often eat the puppy’s droppings. This is to keep the area clean and also to help conceal the litter from any predators.

- Could be the result of over feeding. If a dog is over-fed he doesn’t properly digest his food, therefore his feces still smell and taste like his dinner!

- If you only feed once a day, some dogs can become very hungry and scavenge around for any food (including poo).

- Some dogs have been known to develop Coprophagia when put on certain medications or antibiotics.

- A dog may eat the feces of a sick dog. This behavior is an attempt to conceal or protect the sick dog from predators.

- Dog owners have noted that when changing their dog’s diet the dog has developed coprophagia – especially if the change was to a diet high in fat.

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

The techniques below have proven to be an effective way to stop dogs eating dog poop. You should try one method or combine a few until you break your dog’s habit. Remember that unecessary punishment or getting angry with your dog does not work – for this or any other dog behavior problem.

- Feed well balanced and nutritious meals.

- Try feeding twice a day at regular times rather than only once.

- Always keep your dog’s living area clean of feces and provide a few stuffed chew toys to keep them occupied.

- Be sure to adequately exercise and stimulate your dog – mentally and physically.

- Teach your dog the basic obedience command “leave it”. If you have established yourself as the fair and always consistent leader in your owner-dog relationship, this command will work immediately. To learn how to properly obedience train your dogs try Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer – I have achieved great results using these methods.

- A technique I successfully used to stop my mother’s Shih Tzu from eating her poop was to put a tablespoon of pineapple in her food.

- Apparently pineapple tastes terrible when eaten in poop – can’t say I’ve tried it myself! Other people have used Pumpkin, Spinach, Pickles or Garlic for the same purpose.

- Always reward desired behavior.

- As soon as you see your dog in the act of pooping provide a distraction. Maybe run off on him or call him over to you straight away – you can then praise or reward him. This may be sufficient to break this nasty habit, but you must be consistent using this method.

- If you visit your local pet store you will find various products specifically designed for this problem. Forbid and Deter are a couple of products which have proven to help some dogs stop eating feces.

- Another method (I haven’t tried this one) which you could adopt is to slice your dogs poop length wise and lace it with tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (don’t laugh, apparently it works).

- In some cases fitting a muzzle to your dog may help to break a feces eating habit. This method is suitable in times when your dog is off leash, like at the beach or local dog park.

- Use the power of “negative association” through the use of a choke or prong collar. Fit your dog with the collar and every time he goes to eat poop give a short sharp tug on the leash.

This correction will quickly teach your dog that eating poop is not a pleasant experience. This is an obedience training technique, you can learn how to properly bond and obedience train your dog with this training resource.

Whichever method you try with your dog be sure to be consistent. You must enforce your strategy every time in order to stop dogs eating dog poop. The longer you let this habit establish itself, the harder it will be to break.

One last thing – most dogs do grow out of their poop eating habit, just not fast enough for us owners!

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Paws 4 Peace Walk

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

Join the walk on June 7, 2009

Come join in for a fun filled day. Music, speakers, doggy activities, and of course, the walk!

Paws 4 Peace is a family-fun, dog-friendly event to raise funds and awareness about the humanitarian crisis of explosive remnants of war such as landmines and cluster bombs. On Sunday, June 7, 2009, people and dogs will walk together to help create a world where everyone can walk without the fear of these deadly legacies of war.

The 3 km walk will take place at Second Beach at Ceperley Park Picnic site in Stanley Park with fun activities for the whole family, including dog agility demonstrations, crafts and community booths. So, bring your pooch, and join us in raising funds and awareness of the legacy left behind by remnants of war.

Why should you walk?

Explosive remnants of war (ERWs) such as landmines or cluster munitions continue to devastate populations long after conflicts end. Walk with us on June 7th in solidarity with victims from around the world.

Even after the last shots are fired and last battles are finished, civilians continue to pay the price of war. Explosive remnants of war (ERWs) such as landmines and cluster bombs leave a deadly legacy for decades after a conflict. The problem is not new. ERWs have been a by-product of nearly every armed conflict in modern times, currently affecting an estimated 84 countries worldwide.

Landmines are explosives that are typically placed on or near the ground, and are designed to be activated by their victim through contact, proximity, or presence. Currently, estimates of the number of landmines in the ground around the world vary between 45 and 100 million.

Cluster Bombs are metal canisters which contain dozens to over 600 small “bomblets” which are designed to explode on impact or after a timed delay. The problem is that 10-40% of these bomblets malfunction and don’t explode. Left on the ground, these ERWs are very sensitive and can explode at any time.

The Human Impact of landmines and cluster bombs is the same, even though they are different weapons by design.

- They cannot tell the difference between the footsteps of a child from those of a soldier;

- They deny access to valuable farm land, and block important resources such as water, education, hospitals, and work;

- They leave victims with permanent injuries that change their lives, if they survive;

- They hinder development, while causing a variety of medical, social, and economic issues for people in the region.

Because of campaigning by people world-wide, the Ottawa Treaty was created in 1997 to ban the production, use, transfer, and stockpiling of landmines. A new treaty banning cluster bombs have also been opened for signing in December 2008. While these treaties have made a tremendous impact on preventing more landmines and cluster bombs from claiming more lives, there is more work to be done. Assistance to victims and promotion of the treaties to countries that have not signed the treaties are just two of the many areas that are part of the ongoing work of the Red Cross. With the current successes and ongoing work by the international community, a world free of ERWs is certainly possible within our lifetime.

For More Information go to Paws 4 Peace

What to do with doggy doo?

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

How ’bout use a Powerloo?

Necessity might be the mother of invention, but nastiness also played a big role in Curt Fournier’s creation. Fournier, 34, developed the Powerloo and formed GreenDog LLC with fiancee Victoria Januszewski. It’s an outdoor, handsfree flushable toilet for dog waste. The Powerloo sits just below ground level and taps into sewer lines. It’s designed to be an environmentally safe and convenient way to dispose of dog poop.

Fournier, who said he spent two years on research, said it’s preferable to taking up space in a landfill or remaining on the ground. Federal environmental and disease experts said dog waste can infect humans or other animals, and contaminate water sources.

Such experts recommend flushing pet waste down a toilet but “carrying dog poop into your house can be unsafe, and not to mention gross,” Januszewski told the Detroit Free Press for a story published Saturday.

“Vicki and I were getting tired of cleaning up the mess left by our two dogs and thought that being able to flush it down a toilet in the backyard would make things easier,” Fournier said.

GreenDog plans to officially launch the Powerloo next month and expects to make 500 of them this year. It sells for about $1,000, and comes with an optional heating unit to prevent freezing.

For more info go to: The Powerloo

What to do if your dog gets skunked!

Monday, May 25th, 2009

What’s worse than having your dog skunked? How about having your skunked dog run through the house, leaving a trail of stink that’s nearly impossible to get rid of?

Spring is here, and so again are skunks, who are busy courting and mating and spreading their scent hither and yon — including on dogs.

“We had three the other day,” says Francine Barnes, owner of Carriage Hill Kennels in Glenview, Ill., where skunked dogs can get cleaned up. “We’re probably doing a couple a week now. We even had some in March, which is unusual. It’s April, May, June when they really kick in.”

Skunks, which are also high on the list of animals that carry rabies, are more likely to be found in rural areas. But they do turn up in some sections of cities near wooded areas, for example. Glenn Mayer, a member of the Chicago Veterinary Medical Association who has a practice on the city’s Far Northwest Side, says he had a skunked Shih Tzu brought in recently.

There are things a pet owner can do.

Reduce the skunk threat by not making them welcome. Never leave pet food outside, don’t feed skunks, keep trash containers secure, and remove piles of brush that could serve as shelter. When you take the dog out at dawn or dusk — when skunks are most active — flip on a yard light and make a lot of noise first to scare them off.

Even after taking all the precautions, though, your dog can run afoul of the critters. Should the worst happen, the first thing to do is close your doors and keep the dog outside. There’s nothing worse than a skunked dog running through a house, trying to rub the scent off on rugs or furniture.

Don’t hose off the dog. A skunk’s oily musk can’t be removed by water; in fact, water only makes things worse. Also worth noting: Tomato juice doesn’t work as a remedy. It’ll just turn your dog pink.

Instead, Barnes recommends a homemade solution (see accompanying instructions).

Still, the stench can persist, according to veterinarian Lawrence M. Fox, who practices in River Grove, Ill.

“I can often detect the odor on a dog just brought in for a routine visit, and when I question the owner, [he or she will] recollect that the dog was skunked some weeks prior,” he says.

“The most effective [remedy] is time,” adds Barnes, who has been in the kennel business for more than 40 years. “It’s just got to wear off.

“My dad used to say that on a warm sunny day, put your dog out in the sun and let it bake off.”

Anti-skunk dog rinse

1 quart fresh hydrogen peroxide (available at any drugstore or grocery store)

1/4 cup baking soda

2 tablespoons liquid dish soap (preferably Dawn)

1. Mix all ingredients. The mixture will bubble, and it must be used when freshly made, while it’s still active.

2. The washing should be done outside; wear protective gloves.

3. Don’t wet the dog; pour the mixture over the dry dog, being careful not to get any in the animal’s eyes, and let it sit for 10 minutes.

4. Rinse and repeat.

5. If the smell persists, make another batch of solution and go another round. (And it’s probably not a bad idea to follow up with a professional groomer.)

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Dog Grooming at Home – Keepin’ it in the Family

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

Considering attending to your dog’s hygiene needs at home? Consider this: When you work your dog’s skin and remove foreign objects, you’re mirroring a portion of his natural, wild heritage. Wolves do it for one another, and now you can use home dog grooming, not only as part of a money-saving routine, but as a vehicle to bond with your best bud. He will repay you with heightened loyalty and extra wet kisses.

Just ten minutes per day spent doting on your doggie’s physical condition will result in a stronger bond and a mutual respect.

You may want to shoulder all hygiene needs at home, or just a portion. Here, you’ll find a menu of standard services offered by professional dog groomers (or, you). Keep in mind that if you choose to take care of your dog’s grooming needs at home, you will be required to purchase a few dog grooming supplies to get you up and running.

Brushing:

Fur, that is – We’ll Touch on Teeth Later

Daily brushing is necessary for every dog, regardless of fur length. True, longer hair is more prone to mats and tangles, but brushing your short-haired dog stimulates blood flow and oils, and importantly, alerts you to any changes in his skin condition.

If, while brushing, you notice sore spots, itchy skin, or a notably dull coat, consider your dog’s overall health. If his latest veterinary check-up has proven him to be free from disease, consider changing his diet. Higher quality dog foods are sometimes the answer. Also, the addition of fatty oil to his diet can clear up skin conditions quite effectively.

Also note that parasites in your dog’s fur can transfer disease and can take a leap from the dog to you or your family members.

Black specks on the dog’s skin are a sure indicator of the presence of fleas. Run a flea comb through the hair and put your finds into soapy water to kill them. A flea-killing shampoo should be used during your dog’s next bath (start at the head when washing, to avoid a flea stampede into the dog’s ears).

If a tick is found crawling, pluck it and plunge it into rubbing alcohol to kill it. If the tick is imbedded in your dog’s skin, use tweezers to grasp its head, as close to the skin as possible, and pull it straight out, at a 90 degree angle to your dog’s body. Do not use substances like petroleum jelly or dish soap to force the tick to back out of the dog. This could stress the tick and cause it to regurgitate its contents back into Fido. Yuck! Also, do not attempt to kill the tick before pulling it. If you do, you will be left with a half-tick whose jaws are clamped into the skin – making it nearly impossible to remove. If you pull the tick and the head remains in the dog’s skin, swab the area with rubbing alcohol, and the skin will likely naturally push the head out, or the skin will grow around it. Consult with your veterinarian if the area becomes inflamed or red.

Examine your dog for burrs, seeds, thorns and other foreign objects while brushing his fur. Remove any that you find. Check between his pads for those same types of objects. Cuts and irritations from any of these can cause infection and numerous other complications.

Tools needed for brushing depend greatly upon your dog’s coat length. Long-haired dogs are going to require the most maintenance, and the greatest number of grooming tools. You’ll need an oil-based conditioner or detangler, a pair of scissors or a mat razor, a fine toothed comb, a wide toothed comb, a pliant wire brush, and a mat comb. Coats that sport tresses of significant length are pleasing to the touch and the eye, but require an extra shot of maintenance. Mats are common, and must be removed – either by combing or cutting. If left intact, mats will tighten until the dog’s skin is pulled and his movement inhibited. Severe pain and infection can result.

Dogs with a medium length coat can get by with a soft brush for most spots, and a comb for longer, feathered areas.

Short coats, which are all the rage this season, require little hair styling, but stimulation and examination are still necessary. A terrycloth rag or hound glove with massaging nubs work perfectly.

Brushing your dog daily aids in eliminating future problems and gives both of you a special time to look forward to. Read on for a better understanding of the construction of your dog’s coat and to learn about where all of that extra hair is coming from!

Source

Help find Trixi

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

If anyone has any information about this lovely lost dog please contact us as soon as possible. You can also call call Gordon at 604-773-8313. The following article from the NOW paper has information about Trixi and how she went missing:

After two weeks of searching and with very few leads to go on, Trent Gordon began taking extraordinary measures to find his missing eight-year-old poodle Trixi.

The Coquitlam resident lost Trixi after a violent altercation with another dog in Burnaby April 4, and since that time, he has retained the services of both a search and rescue expert from Washington and a Thai monk.

“It’s been a pretty rough last couple of weeks not knowing and hoping that she’s OK out there,” Gordon told The NOW Thursday. “We just want her back and we’re definitely willing to pay a reward.”

The April 4 incident took place along the Brunette River, when Gordon was walking Trixi along a stretch of trail near North and Cariboo roads. Gordon says he came across a woman walking her dog — one much larger than Trixi and without a leash — and a confrontation ensued.

“This dog approached [Trixi], and our dog doesn’t like big dogs. She barked, and this other dog basically attacked her,” Gordon recalled. “It all happened so fast, that in the time I tried to pull the leash and break it up, her harness broke and she just started running.”

Trixi was chased by the other dog for about 50 metres before disappearing into the wooded areas surrounding the trail and, after her disappearance, Gordon did just about everything he could: he checked shelters in Burnaby, New Westminster, Vancouver and Coquitlam; posted his story on Craigslist and missing pet websites; took ads out in seven local newspapers; and put up hundreds of posters.

Once all the traditional avenues were exhausted — and after some online research — Gordon enlisted the services of Washington-based search and rescue expert Harry Oakes for $800.

A former police officer and current owner of International K9 Search and Rescue Services, Oakes came to Burnaby on April 19 alongside two dogs trained in search and rescue practices. Their day-long search ended near the intersection of Lougheed Highway and Phillips Avenue.

“[The dogs] just stopped, looked around and acted as if, ‘Where did the scent go?’ That indicates to me that somebody put it in the car right there,” Oakes said in an interview Thursday.

Oakes’ trip north of the 49th parallel was far from his first, as he’s seen a massive influx of pet-related thefts in recent times, a disturbing trend he attributes partly to the global recession.

“We’ve seen thefts of small breeds escalate almost three-fold through the last three years from Canada all the way to San Diego,” he said. “We do about 750 calls a year, and lately with the recession we’re getting a lot more people calls: people committing suicide, disappearing in the woods and things like that.”

Shortly after Oakes’ search wrapped up, Gordon’s wife Chu Chu, a practising Buddhist of Thai descent, went to her place of worship to pray for the safe return of Trixi. While there, she came across a Thai monk visiting from San Francisco who went to the Gordon residence for a “spiritual reading.”

The monk examined both Trent and Chu Chu’s birthdates, their palms and the dates on which Trixi was born and went missing. The monk came to the conclusion that Trixi was alive and taken in an eastbound direction from where she was last seen — the same conclusion that Oakes’ investigation had come to.

“We wanted him to pray for us and see what his readings found,” Gordon said.

Gordon is offering a “significant reward” for the safe return of Trixi. She’s an eight-year-old toy poodle with a bronze coat and weighs about eight pounds.

“She was wearing a leather collar with a Coquitlam animal hospital rabies tag, which had the vet’s phone number on there,” he said.

Anyone with information is asked to call Gordon at 604-773-8313.

Source

National Dog Bite Prevention Week

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

May 17–23, 2009 is the official week for all Americans to do their duty and focus on preventing dog bites. Each year, 4.5 million of us are bitten by dogs, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

Who is more likely to be bitten? Among adults, males more so than females. Among children, the rate of dog bite–related injuries is highest for those ages 5 to 9 years. Adults with 2 or more dogs in the household are 5 times more likely to be bitten than those living without dogs at home.

The CDC offers these tips to help children learn to avoid dog bites:

- Do not approach an unfamiliar dog.
- Do not run from a dog or scream.
- Remain motionless (e.g., “be still like a tree”) when approached by an unfamiliar dog.
- If knocked over by a dog, roll into a ball and lie still (e.g., “be still like a log”).
- Avoid direct eye contact with a dog.
- Do not disturb a dog that is sleeping, eating, or caring for puppies.
- Do not pet a dog without allowing it to see and sniff you first.

For more tips on dog bite prevention, download this brochure from the American Venterinary Medical Association.

Tips for camping with your dog

Friday, May 15th, 2009

It is the May long weekend and many of you will be heading out for your first camping trip of the summer with your pooch! The outdoors is one of the best places to spend time with your dog and your dog will love all the new sights, sounds and smells. Here are a few tips that may make camping with your dog a bit more enjoyable and possibly safer:

- Consider a pre-traveling vet visit.

- Get current on all shots and vaccinations and obtain a Rabies tag for your dogs collar.

- Consider a possible Lyme disease vaccine.

- Obtain a current copy of their records and vet’s phone number.

- Get a proper dog license & ID tags for your dog–there name, your name and address and phone number.

- Temporary tags may be a good idea — name and phone number of where you are staying.

- Microchips, tattoos and pet registries are also available.

- Bring medications and copy of prescriptions.

- Consider use of a crate for travel and short term restraint.

- Don’t forget to pack plenty of water from home for your dog. Bring their regular food bowls, food and treats. To avoid problems, keep them on their regular schedule.

- Bring their chew toys and dog brush.

- Always bring their collar and leash. Extras may be a good ideas.

- For unexpected situations, pack first aid items for your dog and also a towel. Obtain the phone number of a vet in the area where you are staying.

- Check with your destination to be sure whether dogs are permitted. Pets are prohibited at many state and national parks. Try to get a site with some shade for your dog.

- Many private campgrounds allow dog but it is of utmost importance that you respect the other campers around you.

- Make sure you have complete control over your dog at all times. Keep them on their leash.

- Do not allow your dog to bark. Frequent and continued barking disturbed the wildlife and other campers.

- Closely supervise your dog around children, other visitors and other dogs.

- Never leave your dog outside unattended.

- Always pick up after your dog.

- Make use of designated dog walking areas.

- Use ziplock bags to pick up after them and properly dispose of it in appropriate trash containers.

- Give your dog time to adjust to their new surroundings. Give them time to rest.

- Watch that your dog doesn’t get tangled around tent poles or stakes, tables, trees, rocks etc.

- Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise. But consider the effect of activity and energy levels on your dog health.

- Be aware of how weather conditions effect your dog–heat, cold, rain etc.

- Remove any leftover food after your dog eats. This food could attract unwanted insects or wildlife.

- Be courteous of others while walking your dog. Keep your dog calm and controlled.

- Consider your dogs sleeping arrangements.

- Be aware that your dog may have increased exposure to ticks and fleas. Have the proper tick/flea collars, repellants or use Frontline applications. Other diseases can also be obtained from wild animals and insects.

Source

Man with overweight dog convicted

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

A dog owner whose border collie was found to be twice its ideal weight has been found guilty of neglect.

Ronald West, of Donald Road, Brighton, was convicted in his absence after failing to appear before magistrates in the city and sentencing was adjourned.

The court heard five-year-old Taz was found to weigh 88lb (40kg), after West ignored orders to improve his diet.

Animal welfare officers who visited the 62-year-old’s flat last December said they found dog faeces in every room.

West told officers the dog was overweight because it had been given too many treats by him and his friends.

‘Cruel with kindness’

He said he had been unwell with flu and unable to clean the flat or walk the dog.

During the case, magistrates heard a transcript between West and council officers in which West said: “I’ll put my hands up and say I’m guilty of [the dog] being overweight, but it wasn’t deliberate.”

“You can be cruel with kindness.”

The court heard that animal welfare officers first visited the flat last year after another resident complained.

Officers advised West to clean the flat, exercise Taz, seek a vet’s advice, and clip his pet’s overgrown claws.

But magistrates were told West failed to improve the animal’s condition and Taz became fatter.

During interviews, West told officers he was reluctant to exercise Taz outdoors after his pet had been attacked by a rottweiler.

Ex-farm worker West told officers: “I’d rather hurt myself than hurt that dog and I’d rather go without than let that dog go without.”

In March, council and police officers went to the flat and Taz went into council kennels where he shed a quarter of his weight.

Chairman of the bench Robert Divine ordered a warrant to ensure West attended sentencing.

After the hearing, Brighton councillor Geoffrey Theobald said: “All dogs, but particularly border collies like Taz, need a good healthy diet and lots of exercise.

“Keeping a large dog shut indoors in a small space and overfeeding is a form of cruelty.”

Source

Hot cars deadly for dogs in the summer

Tuesday, May 12th, 2009

In hot car, ‘just a minute’ can be deadly for dogs:

If you’ve ever left your dog in the car for “just five minutes” on a summer day, the officers of the Washington Humane Society want you to hear some cautionary tales.

“They all say the same thing: I never thought that this would happen,” says Mitchell Battle, deputy director of humane law enforcement at the Washington Humane Society. “I was only going to be gone for two minutes.”

But just running inside for a quick errand can be deadly to your pet – even if the weather isn’t all that hot.

In one fatal incident Battle responded to, the temperature was only in the 70s. A woman stopped at home, parked in the shade and came out after what she said was 15 minutes. By the time officers got there, the shade had moved, turning the car into what officer Eve Russell calls “a solar powered Easy-Bake oven.”

Everyone’s opened a car door and been amazed by how much hotter it is than outside – but you may not realize exactly how hot a car can get. Check out the numbers at the Web site mydogiscool.com, a program of United Animal Nations. When it’s 72 degrees, a car in direct sun can reach an internal temperature of 116. Even in the shade, a car can be 10 to 20 degrees hotter than outdoors, and cracking the window has almost no effect.

Veterinarian Cate Rinaldo, a volunteer with United Animal Nations, points out that dogs don’t have sweat glands all over their bodies like humans do, so the main way they can cool off is by panting, which isn’t very efficient.

Once a dog’s body temperature gets over about 106 – normal temperature is around 101 – the result is “everything from nerve damage, heart problems, liver damage, systemic organ failure, and it happens fast, within a matter of minutes,” she says.

Summer is also vacation season, and the Washington officers are often called to cases where people travelling with their dogs tried to use the car to extend their stay by a few hours.

“They check out of their hotel at noon and they still want to go to the zoo or a museum, and they leave Fluffy in the car,” says officer Ann Russell.

Remember that one more museum isn’t worth the risk to your pet’s life – and that cars are not the only place where dogs can get overheated. Rinaldo says that before she was a vet and knew of the dangers, one of her dogs collapsed from heat exhaustion after playing off-leash on a 75 degree day.

That dog survived, but not all are so lucky. One 90 degree day in the San Bernadino mountains, Andy Hoodward of Orange, Calif., was flagged down by a couple carrying their dog in a backpack.

“The woman explained that they had set out hiking in the morning but a couple of miles in, the dog had become lethargic, unresponsive and would neither walk nor drink,” says Hoodward.

The couple were also in bad shape, and Hoodward drove them to a ranger’s station, but it was too late for the dog, which died on the trip.

And officers say anyone can be the victim of inattention or miscalculation. Officer Ann Russell tells of one woman who worked with autistic children and was a volunteer guide dog puppy raiser – “the most responsible person you can imagine,” she says. In an emergency with one of the children, the woman accidentally left a puppy in a car and it died.

Even indoors, it can get too hot for some animals. Battle tells of an elderly, overweight beagle that died of heat exhaustion in his own home; sadly, the house did have central air conditioning but the owners hadn’t left it on since there were no people home.

Be especially careful if you confine your dog to a crate or one area of the house and he’s not free to seek a cooler spot. If you leave your dogs outside, even on a patio or deck, make sure they have shade all day and remember that the sun moves. Use a tarp or awning to shade the spot, and perhaps reconsider whether your dogs might be happier indoors.

“Go out there barefoot and step on the concrete where your dogs are,” says Battle. “It’s not as comfortable as you think it is.”

http://www.mydogiscool.com/

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